Boys will be boys...

Boys will be boys, but being knotty just might be fashionable some day; the day you receive an invitation to a black-tie, or other formal affair. What you wear is just as important as how you wear it, whether attending a wedding, funeral, or crashing a Presidential State Dinner. Looking dapper and debonair, with a touch of culture and refinement, is the goal of every modern-day gent when faced with such an occasion. With this in mind, what’s all the fuss over 50+ inches of silk, and what’s with all those knots, anyway?  

The necktie, along with its forerunner the cravat, has been a predominately male fashion expression for centuries. Its origins can be traced to both military and royal attire of the early 17th century. Although an important piece of fashion history, there is no mandate that your formal ensemble conjure up memories of your father’s matching tie, handkerchief, and sock combinations. 

• The conservative look outranks all others within the professional arena. Keep things simple, while in a Corporate Environment or during a Job Interview, by wearing a dark suit, white dress shirt, and the classic, solid, navy-blue, or burgundy tie. Although a slight variation of tie color is acceptable, and simple prints are tolerated, avoid the temptation for bright colors or busy novelty prints at all costs; especially during the holiday season. 

•  When making a tie decision for Weddings, or other jubilant Celebrations, proceed with caution. Oftentimes, there are unspoken rules of etiquette for guests at a wedding, or other formal engagement. If you are not in the wedding party, pay special attention to your invitation, and any attire requests from your host. If the celebration is a black-tie affair, keep it simple and go with tradition. In the absence of such a request, bear in mind that weddings generally have a color theme. Grooms frequently choose the tie colors of white, silver, gray, sage green, pink, lavender, yellow, and orange. If you are not privy to this information, stick with basic tie colors and dark suits rather than making an unsolicited fashion statement. Although an Ascot tie, or other formal neckwear is in order, be careful not to upstage the groom.   

• Without question, Funerals are a definite black-tie affair. Stick with a black, dark blue or gray suit with a tie of similar color.  Enough said.  

• For Dating or Romantic occasions, feel free to liven up your fashion ensemble with a dose of imagination. Create a look that is warm, inviting, and friendly, as there is no need for conservatism here. Break the monotony of tradition with a splash of vibrant color, a unique print or pattern, a distinctive tie or Ascot pin, wearing a decorative vest in lieu of a jacket, or a variation of the necktie altogether.

Whatever you decide, make certain that your apparel is clean, pressed, and properly fitted. To the latter, every gent will know his measurements (neck, chest, sleeve, waist, and inseam), and is re-sized from time-to-time, to account for changes in his physique.  

Lastly, if you’re the uncomplicated type, don’t fret over the Windsor knot, Half-Windsor knot, Pratt/Shelby knot, Four-in-Hand knot, Small knot, Prince Albert knot, Cross knot, Ascot (Ruche, Cocolupa, or Naud Gordien) knot, Jabot, Bow Tie, and which knot, not to wear. Ties of the clip-on and pre-tied variety are fashion, that is fortunately made simple. 

Now that you’re all tied up, could there be an additional benefit of wearing a necktie? It should come as no surprise that, for women, there’s something inexplicably titillating about a well-groomed gent in a tie; the three Cs to be exact.  If you could read her mind, she’d share that you appear to be in Control, exhibit a Command presence, and convey a sense of Confidence, all by wearing a tie!  Not to mention the extra points earned for your quotient of appeal.   So what are you waiting for? Enjoy any formal event while looking your best.  

Don’t be afraid to tie the knot. Wear it – a necktie – the modern gent’s fashion accessory. 

-K. Walsh  

Close, but no cigar

Power used to be flashy. Now, it’s unassuming. It used to brash. Now, it’s calculated. It’s time for you to buy a solid dark tie. No wider then the lapel on your 2 button suit, the dark tie commands respect without expecting it. The dark tie is worn by the first one to work, and the last one to leave. He talks a big game, but still exceeds all expectations. He’s younger then everyone else, and already moving into the corner office. Hell, he deserves it.

You deserve it

Good Luck and Happy Hunting.

-Bravado Living

Black Leather with Silver Accents

Your bread and butter

Black leather with silver accents. The quintessential leather/metal combo. Chances are you already have this look covered. This collection will cover everything from conservative days at the office, to weddings, to anchoring your jeans and blazer combo. Extremely versatile and nearly foolproof.

The black and silver collection may be nearly foolproof, but somehow some guys still manage to screw it up. The one mistake, you can make, in this particular collection, is not recognizing the level of formality a particular piece has, and failing to stick to the same family. This goes beyond wearing a silver banded watch with your tuxedo (always wear a leather banded watch), but wearing rubber soled shoes with a suit, an athletic watch with your blazer, or a jean belt with your slacks. These are all mistakes-that while not incredibly important, prevent your outfit from becoming truly world class.

Porsche Design Cufflinks $540: Cufflinks exude power and class. Even if you don’t have the corner office yet doesn’t mean you can’t dress like you do.

Cole Haan Attache $775: Keep your dad’s briefcase at home. Your attache should be slim, and only carry the essentials.

Piaget Watch $12,000: Cufflinks and a Brietling are too much. Keep your watch subtle and elegant.

Salvatorre Ferragamo Shoes $550: If you don’t have a pair of Italian leather shoes, go buy a pair now. We mean it.

Persol Sunglasses $360: No need for a gaudy brand slapped on the side, keep it classic.

Calvin Klein Belt $325: High quality leather with a simple buckle that will never go out of fashion

Church’s Breast Pocket Wallet $320: Keep the bulge out of your pants, and go with this much more formal breast pocket wallet

Black Rubber with Silver Accents: Casual Edition

For Jeans and Blazer Days

If you’re lucky enough to work in a place that allows jeans, then tone your formality down a notch. Swap leather for rubber. This look implies that no one can tell you how to dress, because chances are– you’re the boss. That you park an Alfa Romeo, and not that sedan you actually drive. Subdued, but elegant, this collection is as rugged as it is refined.

Banana Republic Shoes $158: Not only are rubber soled shoes more comfortable, they look more casual too.

Cartier Santos Watch $5,900: The ultimate sport watch. The rubber strap completes the theme of this look.

Fabien Baron Sunglasses $375: Jeans? and Aviators? Who is this guy?

Louis Vuitton Messenger Bag $1500: Swap the briefcase for the shoulder bag and don’t look back

Dior Key Ring $165: Something has to hold your car keys right?

Church’s Belt $165: A little thicker of a belt to prevent your jeans from rolling down

Ermenigildo Zegna Case $275: Yeah. Just because.

Gold with Brown Leather

For the classiest of gentlemen

When we were younger, and obviously much more naive, we avoided gold like the plague. Considering it too gaudy, we now recognize it’s timeless appeal and it’s synonymous nature with class. Other then black leather with silver accents, no other look demands more respect. Some may even argue that this collection demands even more respect (us).

It is a slightly more difficult collection to complete as your hues of leather may vary, gold is a little more expensive than silver, and simply the pieces are harder to come by- but we believe that once complete, no collection looks better with a navy suit (the staple of a man’s wardrobe).

Prada Briefcase $1,900: Make sure that it cuts slim, and only holds your essentials. You want to make it seem like you bring some work home, not bring work to home.

Hermes Belt $600: Cut slim for your flat front pants, and anchored solid with that beautiful buckle.

Prada Aviators $270: Wire rimmed and horn accented. These puppies make anyone look like a movie star.

Constantin Durmont Skeleton Watch $3,700: You don’t own this watch. You merely hold onto it for the next generation.

Ferragamo Shoes $550: The high vamp on this shoe makes it look like a demi-boot. The gold accent doesn’t hurt either.

Mont Blanc Cufflinks $190: For the real power players in your office.

Silver with Chocolate Brown Leather

For the man on the go

If you work on the road, or travel often, this collection is calling your name. The ultimate paradox, classic yet casual- brown leather with silver accents. It remembers that this country wasn’t built by men wearing suits, and rebelliously call out to this time past. Unpretentious. Unassuming. This look shows that if you are waiting for something to turn up, you should start with your shirt sleeves.

Blinde Sunglasses $425: Wire frames match the on-the-go mentality of this collection

Rolex Watch $4,400: The tie-free look should come with an equally casual looking watch

Calvin Klein Attache $650: Matches your shoes chocolate brown and the pebbled leather borrows from the cowboy that inspired this look

Tag Heuer Cell Phone $4,565: Tag over values it’s brand. Don’t buy this overly expensive piece of equipment- we just couldn’t photoshop this out of the picture.

Want Les Credit Card Holder $115: Cash in your breast pocket, cards in your back.

Gucci Shoes $595: Wear them in but keep them shined. Wrinkles look good.

Tod’s Billfold $245: Once again, yeah. Just because.

Camel Leather with Silver Accents

European Elegance

If chocolate brown leather with silver accents is unpretentious, then camel leather says “Money is no object.” Wear this collection wisely because very few men have a single piece in camel leather, let alone a whole matching outfit- and once you do, you will be pegged as a fashion forward man forever. Worn with a charcoal, navy, or shark skin suit, this look exudes the utmost in modern luxury.

John Varvatos Shoes $395: It always starts with the shoes

Delvaux Folio $1,756: The attache that will bring this look together, once again cut as slim as your suit.

Goyard at Barney’s Wallet $515: Pulling out a camel colored wallet might be overkill. That’s why you’re gonna do it.

Gucci Watch $1.895: If your going for a look that says money is no object then an alligator banded watch is only appropriate

Belt, $550, by J.M. Weston. Sunglasses, $350, by Cutler and Gross. Card Case, $190, by Valextra at Barneys New York, Paul Stuart Clip $78

Feel free to mix and match to your heart’s desire. Build your collection slowly, and you will be ready to go for any occasion.

Time to feel like an aristocrat without having to go to all the trouble of marrying into royalty.

BUY IT Kolor Cotton Double-breasted Coat $725

Opening Ceremony, 35 Howard St., NYC, (212) 219-2688,

This suit will speak volumes about it’s owner, practically shouting its sophistication and good taste. The suit is made from a smooth blend of angora and wool, exquisitely tailored in Italy. Every piece of this suit is comely and refined, with the plaid pattern being very subtle. The jacket is designed with wide, notched lapels, roped shoulders and two-button silhouette with four buttons at the cuffs. It has flap welt pockets at the hips, welt pocket at the left chest, interior welt pockets at the chest and left hip. It also has double back vents. The vest features a five-button placket and notched collar with welt pockets at the hips. The front of the vest is wool and angora,the back is  lightweight rayon with an adjustble slide buckle tab for an easily customizable fit. The trouser is tailored with a standard-rise waist with slide-buckle tabs at the sides for a customized fit. It also has flat front, angled hand pockets and back button-through welt pockets. The hem is cuffed. All in all, this is one great looking piece of plaid.

BUY IT Garrison Plaid 3-Piece Suit $2095.00

In all seriousness.

BLAZERS

Blazers are not merely jackets that are worn with a pair of off-color slacks. They are a staple in a man’s wardrobe. In many instances should be one of the first major clothing purchases in your life, and will serve you very well as versatile, stylish, anchor of your style. So what is it?

A blazer is a two or three button (buy it in two), wool jacket , most commonly seen in navy, and adorned with gold buttons. Other than your favorite pair of dark jeans, no item is more forgiving. Trust us. You can wear it with just about anything from khakis on casual friday, to jeans for a night on the town, to seersucker pants if you’re really feeling adventurous, this companion can do it all. If you don’t have one already, please buy one. Like most things they make, we prefer Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label version as it sits well, holds its shape, and looks phenomenal.

Also make sure to get it tailored. Notice the silhouette of the jacket above and how the shape can make you look jacked, even though you haven’t done a pull-up in your life.

SPORT COATS

Sport coats on the other hand tend to be a patterned worsted wool with either a checker, herringbone, or corset pattern. It is almost always a rougher texture due to it’s lower thread count. This lends itself as the most casual jacket of the bunch. Worn for lazy days at the track, a passport holder at the airport, or to dress up a pair of jeans, the sport coat- while not the most essential of items- will definitely yield itself useful when the time comes.

SUIT JACKET

The suit jacket is recognizable by it’s higher thread count and matching pants (never wear a jacket with “close enough” pants and try to pass it off as a suit- everyone can tell). It can be adorned by any number of patterns but most commonly a chalk or pin stripe like the suit featured below.

Notice the pocket square, thinner tie, and tailored jacket. Well done, sir. Well done indeed.

Introducing the Black Label Ralph Lauren collection to Barneys New York. The suit is part of this upcoming spring’s deluge of new clothes. This is definitely something to keep an eye out for. The Black Label suit is razor-sharp; blending the iconic good taste we have come to expect from Ralph Lauren with a young, sexy silhouette.

I think it’s just the bee’s knees. I would wear this anywhere and everywhere. To work, to lunch, to sleep, you name it. It’s sleek and sophisticated, a real gentleman’s piece. The color is great too, dark and neutral. This is a deal maker’s suit, a suit of kings.

If I bought this suit and got hit by a car, my last thought would be about how great the suit was going to look on me at my funeral. I can’t wait for spring.

BUY IT   Ralph Lauren Black Label Olive Linen Suit $1,850
Barneys New York, 660 Madison Ave., NYC, (888) 8BARNEYS

Next you’ll need to accessorize. If your jacket has a pocket, put something in it. And try to stay from Cuff links because they are difficult to pull off due to their formality so unless you’re Jason Stratham, or you’ve got a bow-tie hanging loose to match I’d stick to button sleeves.

Next, and most important is a fitted shirt with a STIFF collar. There’s nothing worse than a limp collar  hiding behind your jacket lapel. Make sure your collar stays upright and the shirt stays tight around your stomach ( you don’t need to look like you have a gut when you’ve been working so hard to get rid of it, right?). For the money, Express’s 1MX shirts are remarkably good at behaving and will work in a pinch.

And remember that none of this stuff matters if you don’t get clothes that fit.

Well Done Sir

Looks like Jason has been reading The Haute Spot recently.

Suit, $1,595, and shirt, $270, by Dolce & Gabbana. Shoes, $550, by Allen-Edmonds Seven. Pocket square by Robert Talbott. Briefcase by Hermès.

-GQ

]]> http://bravadoliving.com/2009/07/20/learn-to-go-tieless/feed/ 1 http://bravadoliving.com/2009/07/13/wearing-lighter-color-socks/ http://bravadoliving.com/2009/07/13/wearing-lighter-color-socks/#comments Mon, 13 Jul 2009 16:28:41 +0000 Chuck Nelson http://thehautespot.com/?p=329 There is a saying that a man’s socks should be the same color as his trousers but a bit darker. Well, when no complementary colored hose are available a pair that is the color of the trousers will do. Just. But I prefer to see them somewhat lighter than the trousers rather than darker.

That is because the eye slides over darker socks to focus on the shoes. That same eye stops at lighter colored socks, and focuses on the combination of trousers, socks and shoes. Which ought to be considerably more interesting.

Wear lighter colored socks.

-A Suitable Wardrobe

1. Honor thy tailor

Even the best suits need altering. Pants need to be shortened, jackets need to be brought in, sleeves need to be narrowed (yes, you can ask your tailor to slim down your sleeves), and buttons need to be realigned with buttonholes (most guys’ shoulders aren’t entirely even, meaning your jacket often sits a bit askew). You should always buy your correct size, but you then need to have a tailor customize it to your body. It’s the difference between being appropriately dressed and being stylishly dressed.

2. Thou shalt wear sneakers made for a man

It’s fine to own crosstrainers and running shoes and hightops. But save them for the gym. When you’re on the street, keep your sneakers simple and classic. Go for ones like Stan Smiths, Jack Purcells, and Sambas. They work with everything, including suits.

3. Thou shalt invest in the right timepiece

Buy a high-quality stainless-steel watch. It looks as right with jeans as it does with your best blazer.

4. Thou shalt match your socks with your suit

When choosing socks, the basic rule is to consider the suit instead of the shoe—in other words, if you’re wearing a navy suit with black shoes, reach for navy socks. And when wearing a light suit, make sure the socks are darker than the suit but a shade or so lighter than the shoes.

5. Thou shalt not wear a tie that is too slim

Unless you’re a hard-core fashion guy who favors a superskinny tie, stick with one that measures about three inches at its widest point. It will be narrower than traditional ties, but not by too much. Tie one on and you’ll look modern and sophisticated.

6. Thou shalt put your wallet on a diet

Your wallet should not be as fat as a burrito. In fact, you should get rid of your wallet and, while you’re at it, trash all the receipts, video cards, and other unnecessary crap that’s stuffed in it. Buy an elegant, slim leather credit card holder and stock it with your essential cards. Then, fold your cash in a money clip. All that other nonsense can go in your desk drawer. You don’t need it.

7. Thou shalt wear the right tie with the right tux

Two points to remember: (1) A bow tie goes best with a peak-lapel tuxedo, while a straight tie works better with a notch lapel. (2) Regardless of what kind of tie you’re wearing, make sure the fabric matches the lapel. If your lapel is grosgrain, your tie should be grosgrain. If your lapel is satin, your tie should be satin. And one more thing: Your tie (no matter its shape) should be black. Colored ties are for the prom.

8. Thou shalt wear brown shoes—with nearly everything

Black dress shoes are easy—they’re understated and tasteful. Brown dress shoes up the style factor. People notice them. They go best with gray, khaki, or navy. Dark brown shoes are easier to pull off than light brown ones.

9. Thou shalt learn when to cuff ‘em

If you’re wearing a trim, modern suit with flat-front pants—the kind often shown in this magazine—you should not cuff your pants. However, if you’re a guy who likes a classic suit with a single pleat, go for a cuff—but not more than one and a half inches deep.

10. Remember thy undershirt

This one’s tricky. If you’re wearing a conventional white broadcloth dress shirt (which means it’s fairly see-through), you have two options: Skip the undershirt and you’ll look clean and stylish. Or, if you’re a hairy guy who perspires a lot and you feel safer in an undershirt, wear a crewneck. The lines of a V-neck or tank top will be visible beneath your shirt and tie and you’ll look cheesy. If you prefer a V-neck or tank top, you might consider other dress shirts. Go for ones with checks or stripes, which make an undershirt less visible. Or opt for hardier fabrics, like an oxford cloth, which make undershirts all but invisible.

Yup, pretty spot on.